Back in Black

The blouse is the last version of McCalls 5522 that I have cut out. The skirt is from Sew Beautiful magazine. I made it last summer.

The blouse is made from a fine black cotton with a subtle woven stripe. I have had it in the stash for years. I think it is from a sale table at Hancocks.

I finished the seams by serging. The placket, cuffs, collar and stand are interfaced with black poly organza. All hems and facings are sewn by hand. I did try to machine top stitch the front placket and it was not good, so I ripped it out and sewed it down by hand.


The buttons are from the stash. They must be at least 15 years old. They were labeled as men's knit buttons. Not sure what that means. I guess I'm going off label as this isn't a knit and last time I checked, I'm not a man.

Here is a brief history of McCalls 5522:

Peach eyelet

Teal swiss dot

Silk Floral

And here is Miss Bonnie who never met a print she didn't like.

It's Here!!

Finally - a coverstitch. It was the one sewing toy that I was missing (OK - if my weight didn't fluctuate like the wind I'd get a dress form, and a gravity flow iron would be nice, and I like a steam press, and .... but I digress).

Yes, I went whole hog and got the top of line Bernina serger.

Bernina 1300DMC

This machine is not for the faint of heart (you folks who vehemently argue for a mechanical over computerized sewing machines - stay away, far, far away). It produces 24 different stitches and multiple computations of each.

It is easier to thread than my 134, but and this is a big BUT there are lots of different ways to thread it for the lots of different stitches.

The LCD screen is really cool. It tells you how to thread it and the tensions to use.

I bought it at G Street. It comes with 2 to 3 classes to learn how to use it (depending on how long it takes for you to get it!) The classes are good because they provide you with ideas for using the different stitches. So far I have been able to do the overlook, super stretch, and a couple of different coverstitches.

It also comes with a elasticator foot and a blind hem foot.

Bill says for the price I should be able to throw fabric at it and a 3 piece suit should pop out.

I do spend money on my machines, but they are used. My uncle got my aunt a top of the line sewing machine at one point. He determined the per garment cost was around $400 for how much she used it.

One complaint - Bernina for God's sake PLEASE hire me to write a new user's manual. I have written or reviewed many in my career and this by far the WORST ever. Each procedure comes in 5 different languages on the SAME page. It makes it virtually impossible to easily find anything.

Strike a Pose

Apparently nothing makes Bonnie happier than posing for the Sewing Blog! She comes up with all her own poses. Too bad my photography skills are lacking. This picture would have been better if I hadn't cut off half her head.

I made Bonnie this summer top using leftovers from this top. I think I am going to take up the

straps an inch so it doesn't gap so much under the arms.

The pattern is McCalls 6022.

I actually followed the directions for the pattern, except I made my own bias tape to finish the arm holes. I stitched the facing down by hand, machine top stitched the hem and serged the side seams.

The fabric is swiss dot cotton from G Street. I love it when you have enough leftovers to make a bonus garment.

Closeup of the bias tape.

I Was in the Neighborhood

I was in Arlington, VA this week so I thought I'd pop on over to the Falls Church G Street Fabrics. I think they have a little more selection than the Centerville location, but it's pretty comparable.

Because I didn't have a coupon and there was no sale going on, I headed for the $2.97 table.

I picked out 12 yards of fabric because, well because I am a fabric hoarder. It's true - I've watched that show and my collection of fabric is irrational.

First up is 2 yds of of a poly print. I think this fabric is intended to be cut out as scarves. I'm not a scarf gal. Anything that makes your neck look even thicker than it actually is - is not a particularly good look for a girl of size. I'm thinking of some kind of loose top. Fabric placement is going to be interesting.

I also got a yard and a half of teal, white, and black knit print. I'm not totally sure what the fabric content on this is. It has a great hand. Almost like silk or rayon. I'm afraid to wash it. I will need to be extra careful with the fabric placement of this fabric to avoid booby bulls eyes.

I got 3 yds of a white cotton chenille with a butterfly motif. I'm thinking of beach cover ups for Bonnie and myself.
I also got a yard and a half of a poly novelty knit. I'm thinking of a cowl top for summer. It should match some fuchsia linen I have for a jacket. It too has the potential for booby bulls eyes if I'm not careful.

Last but not least a nice heavy peach cotton knit. I got 4 yds so I can use it for a top or for knit muslin fabric.

Disaster!

I hooked my foot on the power cord for my serger. The serger went flying and fell around 3 feet to the wood floor. I also went sprawling on the floor after smacking my knee and foot.

Oh, the horror. I was sure that this was the end of my serger. I bought it in 1991 used! It is at least 20 years old.

The picture below shows parts I found on the floor.

One of the great things about this serger is that it is relatively easy to thread. (Easy for a serger). I usually cut the thread in the back and tie on the next spools. As long as I move the tension to zero and cut the knots off before the thread passes the eye of the needles (you don't have to do this for the loopers), I can re-thread this serger in about 3 minutes. That seems pretty good. I keep reading blogs from serger owner that seem to do anything to avoid changing the thread on their serger. Apparently, it is too time consuming to bother. The knot trick should make most thread changing bearable.

I was distraught and my husband agreed to let me buy a new serger.

Now for the big surprise, after being dropped 3 feet - this puppy still works. The tension is off a little, but I think that can be fixed. If you do not have a serger, run, don't walk to get yourself a 134. I see them on Ebay for under $200 all the time.

I have purchased a new serger. It is on order. Apparently you can't walk into a store and bring home a high end serger.

I Bet You're Noticing a Pattern Here

McCalls 5522 This is my third version and I have a fourth black version half way done. My first version was the Floral Silk from LA Mood. My second version was the Teal Swiss Dot from G Street.

I knew I wanted some peach/sherbet colored eyelet last summer. I searched for all cotton, but was only able to find this poly/cotton from Hancock Fabrics.

The fabric definitely does not press out as well as cotton, but I think the result is still pretty good.

The sleeves are probably a little too full, but my upper arms are my least favorite body part. I usually have to go up 2 sizes in ready-to-wear to fit my arms. Bodices are always too big for me.

OK, this is the last time I am going to wear the ORANGE necklace with the SHERBET blouse. It's a little unsettling...


I serged all the seams. The facings are interfaced with sew-in peach organza. You can't use regular interfacing because you can see it through the eyelet. I got the organza interfacing tip from a Sewing Guild Meeting I once went to at G Street. I like the organza interfacing for lightweight fabric because it doesn't distort the fabric like iron-on interfacing.

I found the buttons in my stash! Score!! I have no clue where they came from.

I think this blouse will look cute in the summer with jeans and sandals. I also have a vague plan to make a brown linen skirt and jacket for the Spring and Summer. I got gorgeous brown linen from G Street last summer that needs to be sewn.

Sale at G Street

I had a 20% off coupon from G Street burning a hole in my pocket in addition to a 25% off of everything sale. How could I not buy some fabric?

First off is 3 yards of this fine eggplant wool gabardine for $11.50 yd. I needed (OK - wanted) some purple wool to go with this top. It's going to have to wait til next season though, I am on to Spring sewing.

I next hit the infamous $2.97 table. I found 5 yards of the dark shimmery teal knit mystery fabric. Ohh shiny!

I also got the dark Wedgwood blue cotton knit, cheap and good for experimentation. No tears if it doesn't work out.

The 2.97 table also produced this sheer burn out light sea foam green knit. Not sure about the color, it may be too light for me, but it is really cool fabric. I also bought matching lining to make a shell. I'm thinking of Burda Plus Spring/Summer 2010-410.

This would definitely fall under risky sewing category. There is a strong possibility that it would be too floaty for me, but I like the Silhouette.

And finally...

Yellow embroidered cutout cotton/Lycra? knit for Bonnie. Yellow is the kiss of death color for me - literally. Somehow I birthed three children who look fabulous in yellow. Who would have thought it? I was thinking of a Mexican inspired peasanty blousy look. I found McCalls 5839.

I want to make her the top with the flounce collar as a dress with an elastic shirred waist. Hopefully the flounce doesn't stand up as much as it does in this picture.